A few interesting topics at Zuga forum.
In this first thread Mark Hamilton explains how he approaches portrait photography of a young lady on a beach under the direct sun. Read more detail in Zuga.net Forums - Lets Hit The Beach! More Photographing In Mid-day Sun.
Another thread started by Mark is about Formal Bridal Portrait - Getting The Exposure Perfect. In this thread he describes the setup he used for lighting a wedding couple in the church.
In thread Wedding Image: Outdoor Double Profile Mark describes how he managed to take a nice photograph of another wedidng couple outdoors in direct sun.

While browsing forums on the Net, I stumbled an interesting discussion on which lens are better for taking photographs of baby's parts: hands, fingers, toes and feet. The discussion came to the arguments about right exposure without handshake. And among other arguments I would like to mention versatility of the macro lens - you can better use the space (it's easier to manoeuvre and choose the right spot), you need less light (because your are closer to the subject), it's easier to control the subject and the environment (while holding the camera with one hand, you can use your other hand to correct the position of the subject or wipe the drool). But you can see the full discussion at Zuga.net Forums - Which Lens

For those who are interested in Infrared Photography, here is the list of some links to topics on this subject:

• Infrared photography with a digital camera
• Near Infrared Digital Photography: A Tutorial
• Article on the subject by Ken Rockwell

Some articles at Photo.net:

• Infrared Characteristics - Infrared conditions and recommendations
• B&W Infrared - Spectral sensitivity of Kodak HS Infrared film
• Color Infrared - Spectral sensitivity of Kodak Color Infrared film
• Infrared Exposure - Determining exposure for infrared film

You may want to check out the Infrared forum at photo.net and extensive list of links

Reading a magazine American Photo, I encountered an article about top 100 people, which influenced the photography world. Among those there was an agency of 9 photojournalists and a link to their website - VII Photo. Honestly speaking, I was very impressed by the quality and impact of their work. And right away my mind started noticing and analyzing their work. So here are a few things that I want to play with in my future:

• Placing the subject against a light or white background. It could be a pure silhouette or just normally exposed image, but it highlights the shape and form of the subject.
• Sometimes you can use a pole or some other line to split the image and add dramatizm.
• Keeping the frame alway in horizontal view adds the sense of photojournalism.
• Using darke out-of-focus shapes of people on the front plane as the frames to accentuate the subject on the second plane.
• Pointing the camera higher, so the people faces would be in the lower part of the frame, though the main point of the picture is the landscape or the environment.
• Focus on details - feet and the pavement, hands and things people hold in their hands. Sometimes it's just hands, the gestures.
• The contrast of many images is moderate, and whites aren't prominent, if exist at all.
• Fill empty space with extranous objects. It seems that in that aspect PJ is different from fine art. If fine art seems to tend to simplicity, PJ pushes the photographer use the space more aggresively and use every bit of it.
• Use people to complete the image, even it is about the scenery - mostly it is faces and full bodies. When people present in the scenery image, they are either small and used more like a detail, or they are big (just heads and shoulders) and could be out of focus to give some sense of presence, or they could big in focus to tell the story of the place related to people.
• It seems the lens, which are used, is in the wide to normal range. More like 35-50mm.
• Various objects are used on the front plane to fill the space, such as branches woth leaves, nets and other similar objects with holes, in which the subjects appear.
• It seems most of the exposures are done in such a way to preserve highlights and let the shadows drown in the darkness. Rarely there is overexposure used.
• Tilting of the camera used to add more diagonals to the picture, which adds dynamics and increases the impact.

While browsing the web, I encountered a few of interesting articles:

• Michael Quack has written a guide about creating a studio lighting by yourself - The DIY guide to cheap studio lighting
• And explantion of why Canon guys have problems with consistent flash exposure - Flash Negative Evaluative Exposure Compensation
• If you are interested in nuts and bolts of the photo gear and would like to do some stuff yourself then visit CameraHacker.com

By the way don't forget to browse the second and third websites, you may find a lot of interesting information about Canon gear (camera bodies, flashes, etc.) and other tips.