While browsing forums on the Net, I stumbled an interesting discussion on which lens are better for taking photographs of baby's parts: hands, fingers, toes and feet. The discussion came to the arguments about right exposure without handshake. And among other arguments I would like to mention versatility of the macro lens - you can better use the space (it's easier to manoeuvre and choose the right spot), you need less light (because your are closer to the subject), it's easier to control the subject and the environment (while holding the camera with one hand, you can use your other hand to correct the position of the subject or wipe the drool). But you can see the full discussion at Zuga.net Forums - Which Lens

One of the issues we all encounter is the power sources that make our digital gear alive. There are many types of sources and many variables that affect their work. In the article posted at SmartShooter.com I found about a new rechargable batteries that can could solve most of your problems and save you a great deal of money. I have to note that to read this article you have to regitster on the website.
These batteries could replace your AA alcaline batteries, but it may not be the solution for some of other issues. Such as power for your external flash, your professional camera or laptop on the go. But there is another manufacturer, which produces great (but somewhat expensive) solution to these kind of issues. And the name of the manufacturer Digital Camera Battery. For my 550EX flash I purchased 40W battery, pro-cable and the case with the belt clip. The cable allows the flash to burst almost every second - recharge time is a bit more than one second.
To learn more about various types of batteries - read the article written by Ken Rockwell.
You may want to look as well at one of the previous posts here - Initial conditioning for NiMH battery (Thursday, October 14, 2004)

For those who are interested in Infrared Photography, here is the list of some links to topics on this subject:

• Infrared photography with a digital camera
• Near Infrared Digital Photography: A Tutorial
• Article on the subject by Ken Rockwell

Some articles at Photo.net:

• Infrared Characteristics - Infrared conditions and recommendations
• B&W Infrared - Spectral sensitivity of Kodak HS Infrared film
• Color Infrared - Spectral sensitivity of Kodak Color Infrared film
• Infrared Exposure - Determining exposure for infrared film

You may want to check out the Infrared forum at photo.net and extensive list of links

Reading a magazine American Photo, I encountered an article about top 100 people, which influenced the photography world. Among those there was an agency of 9 photojournalists and a link to their website - VII Photo. Honestly speaking, I was very impressed by the quality and impact of their work. And right away my mind started noticing and analyzing their work. So here are a few things that I want to play with in my future:

• Placing the subject against a light or white background. It could be a pure silhouette or just normally exposed image, but it highlights the shape and form of the subject.
• Sometimes you can use a pole or some other line to split the image and add dramatizm.
• Keeping the frame alway in horizontal view adds the sense of photojournalism.
• Using darke out-of-focus shapes of people on the front plane as the frames to accentuate the subject on the second plane.
• Pointing the camera higher, so the people faces would be in the lower part of the frame, though the main point of the picture is the landscape or the environment.
• Focus on details - feet and the pavement, hands and things people hold in their hands. Sometimes it's just hands, the gestures.
• The contrast of many images is moderate, and whites aren't prominent, if exist at all.
• Fill empty space with extranous objects. It seems that in that aspect PJ is different from fine art. If fine art seems to tend to simplicity, PJ pushes the photographer use the space more aggresively and use every bit of it.
• Use people to complete the image, even it is about the scenery - mostly it is faces and full bodies. When people present in the scenery image, they are either small and used more like a detail, or they are big (just heads and shoulders) and could be out of focus to give some sense of presence, or they could big in focus to tell the story of the place related to people.
• It seems the lens, which are used, is in the wide to normal range. More like 35-50mm.
• Various objects are used on the front plane to fill the space, such as branches woth leaves, nets and other similar objects with holes, in which the subjects appear.
• It seems most of the exposures are done in such a way to preserve highlights and let the shadows drown in the darkness. Rarely there is overexposure used.
• Tilting of the camera used to add more diagonals to the picture, which adds dynamics and increases the impact.

While browsing the web, I encountered a few of interesting articles:

• Michael Quack has written a guide about creating a studio lighting by yourself - The DIY guide to cheap studio lighting
• And explantion of why Canon guys have problems with consistent flash exposure - Flash Negative Evaluative Exposure Compensation
• If you are interested in nuts and bolts of the photo gear and would like to do some stuff yourself then visit CameraHacker.com

By the way don't forget to browse the second and third websites, you may find a lot of interesting information about Canon gear (camera bodies, flashes, etc.) and other tips.